What Is Niacinamide & How Does It Benefit Your Skin?

May 2024 · 2 minute read

Hyperpigmentation:

According to plastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor Dr Maryam Zamani, niacinamide is one of the most effective skincare ingredients to incorporate into your regime (after prescription formulas). "It will help to brighten the skin as well as reduce the production of melanin, which is what causes dark spots," she says.

How do I use niacinamide in skincare?

Any skin type and age can benefit from using niacinamide in their skincare routine. Ideally you should use it twice a day, both morning and evening. For the most beneficial results, opt for serums and moisturisers that can be left on the skin for maximum absorption, unlike a cleanser that is immediately washed off.

“Niacinamide can be found in a varying range of concentrations in skincare and is usually well-tolerated causing minimal skin irritation," says Dr Mahto. "Ideally look for products that contain at least 5% niacinamide for the best results and ensure that it features highly on the ingredients’ list of a product (top three to five ingredients),” she adds. Sunday Riley's new B3 Nice, for example, is a 10% niacinamide serum.

Which ingredients can you combine with niacinamide?

The beauty of niacinamide is that it plays nicely with most ingredients and is particularly useful for offsetting the dryness and irritation that comes with gnarlier ingredients such as retinol.

Which is better - vitamin C or niacinamide?

Rather than view these ingredients as either/or, Dr Sturm recommends use niacinamide in tandem with vitamin C - “layering the two serums supercharges their brightening effects," she adds.

A key reason for doubling down with this combo is that, while both ingredients fall under the umbrella term ‘brightening’, they have different mechanisms for achieving a more even skin tone. Vitamin C inhibits the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme that is responsible for excess melanin, while niacinamide is thought to prevent the transfer of this pigment within cells.

Is niacinamide better than retinol?

When it comes to dramatically reducing fine lines and wrinkles, Dr Mahto cautions that niacinamide is “probably not the best choice.” For this retinol remains king as it's stronger and therefore better able to improve cell renewal and stimulate collagen production.

That said, pairing retinol with niacinamide makes the former easier to tolerate as niacinamide will improve moisture in the skin and temper irritation.

How long before I see results?

Depending on the severity of your skin concern, you should begin seeing results from your niacinamide serum after two to four weeks, with results improving over time.

13 of the best niacinamide skincare products...

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